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Galapagos – 2011
Arrival in the Galapagos
We flew from Quito to the coastal city of Guayaquil (largest city in Ecuador), then flew to Baltra, the airport in the Galapagos. Galapagos are 600 miles off shore. The airport was built by the US government right after the bombing of Pearl Harbor in 1941 to protect the Panama Canal during the war. The Galapagos are all volcanic in origin. 97% of the land is under the National Park Service, the remaining 3% is privately owned including a few fishing villages, tourist spots, coffee and sugar cane farms, some Bed and Breakfast resorts, etc. The Ecuadorian government does not allow new immigrants to move permanently to the islands. I understood that to mean that you have to be born there to be a permanent resident.
From the airport on Baltra we boarded a bus to take us to the ferry which then took us to the island of Santa Cruz.
Galapagos – Arrival – 05
This is our ship, the Monsurat. Needless to say it is way too small to have stabilizers and at anchor it rolled and rolled with each swell.
Galapagos – Arrival – 06
This is our bed, taking up 99% of the room. The anchor made out of the towels was cute though. Each room came with a private bath, small but functional. Showers with fresh water were limited to 2 minutes.
Charles Darwin Research Center
Following his lunch, Pete returned to the room and announced that we were going back to Santa Cruz island to tour the Charles Darwin Research Center. This was encouraging, to be back on solid land again. Back in the rubber dingy, back to land. =)))) Iguanas all over the place. This is their territory, rather aggressive in letting you know that they rule. Nasty in personality, and considering their large size, wicked claws and a bite that carries a multitude of bacteria, we were all very respectful. Occasionally they would come after us, we paid attention and moved aside.
Galapagos – Charles Darwin Research Center – 06
The largest opuntia cactus in the world are here, even developing trunks, rather tree-like. The temperature, here just south of the equator is hot and humid…..make that very hot and very humid.
Casa Natura & Santa Cruz Island
It was late when we arrived the hotel, so we took a shower and went to bed. The next day I slept too. On the second morning I was feeling refreshed, recovered from seasickness and ready to go out and explore.
Galapagos – Santa Cruz Island – 04
Beautiful bougainvillea down the block. We always wore long sleeves because of sun and insects. Interesting that the streets were made out of concrete patio stones.
Galapagos – Santa Cruz Island – 09
Tortoises like muddy ponds, mud holes and often blend into the same color as the dirt and you don’t see them at first. Look at the size of the huge elephant-like legs.
Galapagos – Santa Cruz Island – 10
A sculpture in the city park at the fishing village. We also stopped at art galleries, fish markets with flocks of obnoxious pelicans, and some tourist shops. Notice I’m not green any more. =)
Galapagos – Santa Cruz Island – 11
Pete, of course, wanted his photo taken by the (Blue-Footed) BOOBIES sign.
Galapagos – Santa Cruz Island – 12
Took lots of pelican pics, here is one. The guys at the fish market had to keep waving their machetes over the chunks of fresh fish to keep the pelicans at bay. I swear, if the men took a 5 minute break all the fish chunks would have disappeared into the gullets of the pelicans. The birds were aggressive.
Rejoined the Tour
On the third morning at the hotel our driver picked us up at 6:30 and drove us to the dock to meet up with our group. It fact the driver was early and we didn’t even get a cup of coffee!
Galapagos – Rejoined the tour – 01
First stop were two sink holes, impressive, like a lost world down there.
Galapagos – Rejoined the tour – 02
Most animals are tied to the side of the road to graze, no fences like a typical pasture here. Here was a horse tied with a rope around his neck tied to a church.
Galapagos – Rejoined the tour – 03
It impressed me that the animals weren’t nervous or concerned at all about the traffic driving past.
Galapagos – Rejoined the tour – 04
This bull was following his herd of cows down the dirt road and for 15 minutes he refused to move to the side, our bus just followed patiently. We were on our way to a lava tube tunnel.
Galapagos – Rejoined the tour – 05
This is the decent into the lava tube, it was cooler down there, a surprise bit of air conditioning. The walls of the lava tube were made smooth by water at one time. You would swear it was man-made, but it wasn’t. Enormous compared to the lava tubes we’ve been in here is NM.
Galapagos – Rejoined the tour – 06
The lava tube had lights installed, otherwise we could never walk on the uneven surface. We never did see the opening at the other end….or maybe there wasn’t another opening. We walked about a half mile underground.
Galapagos – Rejoined the tour – 08
Back on the surface we spent time with a whole bunch of tortoises, the bus stopping whenever they were spotted. We were close enough to watch them eat and chew, poop and pee. Had to watch where we were stepping.
Galapagos – Rejoined the tour – 10
Occasionally we were lucky enough to see them interacting with each other. I wish I knew more about their social structure. I’d say that 75% were awake and moving, eating, etc. Only 25% were sleeping.
Galapagos – Rejoined the tour – 12
Right after this photo was taken one of the tortoises in the middle of the mud pond stood up tall on his legs, stretched his neck high and uttered a loud sound, something like HARRRRRAH. Considering most of the time tortoises are silent animals, it was a very special experience for us to witness this display of vocal yelling. He only did it once and then wandered out of the pond to resume eating grass.
Our Last Night on Galapagos – Distillery
Galapagos – Distillery – 01
Here is a photo of our tour bus, pulling us to a restaurant to have lunch, out in the country.
Galapagos – Distillery – 03
After lunch we went to a farm where the family distills rum from sugar cane, grows a little coffee and from the stories the old guy told, he spends a lot of time plying local officials with alcohol and getting drunk. The donkey goes in circles and the cane is crushed, the liquid saved to ferment. Here you can see the cane and the metal vice-like thing.
Galapagos – Distillery – 04
At the end the donkey seemed interested in eating the cane pulp. Considering the heat, it wasn’t an easy job for the donkey.
Wild Boar Story
Galapagos – Altair Hotel – 09
Dinner this night was meatloaf. Only the fourth time we’ve had beef on the whole trip. The previous three times the beef was as tough as shoe leather. This meatloaf was excellent. Mosquitoes were somewhat bothersome, but not bad enough to ruin a wonderful evening. The next morning we flew back to Guayaquil and Quito.
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Petr Jandacek
Louise Jandacek
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